Most of guide books tell you to not try to see both Christian Rome and Ancient Rome in the same day. Well, Cecilia and I tried it and don't recommend it. We were wiped.
Our day started at the Vatican Museum. By the time we arrived at 8:30 the line was over a quarter mile. A Roman woman was prowling the end of the line asking if anyone wanted to join a guided tour and go to the front of the line. While more than a little suspicious, we went for it. Essentially, it turned out to be a private tour company that has a permit to conduct guided tours of the Vatican. They make their money selling spots to go into the museum before the general admission. They do offer a guided tour but the guide (while genuinely trying) was pretty lame. I could tell Cecilia was not interested and Luella was losing her patience so we decided to venture off on our own.
We were able to see all the highlights (and then some). Cecilia liked and was impressed by all Raphael's and of course by the Sistine Chapel. After reading "Michelangelo and the Pope's Ceiling" by Ross King. I was even more impressed with the ceiling of the chapel.
In true Latin fashion, we ate lunch and had our second nap in two days. As hot as Rome is, it is a nice way to beat the heat. Luella did not feel well, so Cecilia and I took off to pick up our tickets for the Pope's general audience and to see some more sights. In order, we saw the Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Santa Maria Sorpra Minerva, the Campidoglio, and the Roman Forum.
Cecilia was quite a trooper and we made it through almost the entire Roman Forum. After a subway ride home (Roman Metro update: Line A - Clean, fast, air conditioned. Line B - Dirty, crowded, hot, and smelly - very much what I remember).
Dinner was at one of Rome's better wine bar that has recently added food. Good meal and terrific wine.
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