Dept. of Homeland Security - Protecting your borders by stopping those with common names

Today we wrapped up our trip - all safe and sound - "Gracias a mi Dios." This picture isn't the best documentation of the days drama but does show the Huber girls after 8+ hours of flight and 13+ hours of travel and airport hassles.
Getting out of Medellin airport required 9 separate lines or security checks:
1) Line to pay (in our case
- not pay) the airport tax (which American Airlines collects up front but you still need the stamped paper showing that you paid)
2) Pre-Security check during line to check luggage.
3) Check luggage through x-ray machine.
4) Get boarding passes
5) Emmigration line (to make sure we had not violated our visa-waiver)
6) Airport police in security screening line asking how much cash we were taking out of the country (kind of a creepy question which my parents assure me is standard operating procedure.)
7) Security screening and carry-on baggage X-ray check
8) Hand search of carry-on luggage
9) Boarding pass & passport check before getting on plane.

The entire process, including a stop at the airport coffee shop, took the whole 2.5 hours that we allotted in arriving early to the airport.

Most people (including us) would think that Medellin airport would have been the biggest hassle of the day. But the U.S. Dept. of Homeland Security had other ideas.

After arriving last (from our plane) to the Immigration line at Miami Airport (because Caroline left her book on the plane causing her and Nora to have to wait until all passengers had deplaned), the Huber girls chose one line, while Luby and I chose the adjacent line. When then U.S. Customs and Border Control (CPB) agent called us up I noticed that his name tag said "Vazquez" (irony forthcoming). He electronically scanned my passport then began looking at his computer monitor with some concern. He asked where I worked and typed in a few things. It was a very typical "agent with a computer" encounter that you get anywhere from a hotel lobby to the airport. The agent looks at a bunch of screens, types a bunch of things, and you stand there wishing you could see what they were seeing and doing. After a few minutes, he called over a supervisor and they both began staring at the computer screen and whispering to each other. Finally the supervisor says something like, "Well you could clear him but with this [points to my state address on my customs form], you probably shouldn't." With that, the CBP told me to follow him to a back room so that they could clear something up. He explained that because I had a very common name [irony fully exposed] they had to verify something before clearing me.

At this point a little background information would be useful. Back in early June, I flew on Southwest Airlines to Oakland. I tried to check-in online but was denied with a message that said I needed to see the representive at the airport. When I checked-in the following morning, the rep. told me that my name was on the "Do Not Fly" list and they had to clear me manually upon verification of my birthdate. (Thank goodness my and my nefarious name sake don't share birthdates as well.)

Back to today's story - so off we went to the CBP's back room at Miami International Airport. On the way, Agent Vazquez asked if we had a connection and we explained that we did. He then said he would try to fast-track us through. He presented my passport to a senior CPB person who told me to take a seat and wait, which I did. At this time, I decided it was prudent to not ask a lot of questions since I was so close (in proximity and in process) to the detention center at Guantanamo Bay. By this time, Nora, Cecilia, and Caroline were in Customs waiting for their luggage and wondering what had happened to us so Luella and I started to make arrangements for her to go out to meet them while I was cleared. However, before she could finish filling out a form, I was called up by the senior CPB agent and cleared. As I was eager to get out of there as quickly as possible, I simply thanked him and off we went to find Nora and the girls. Fortunately, we still made our flight to LAX on time.

So what does this say about the state of our border and homeland security? How is it possible that a few months after receiving my new passport I am flagged? All the information that they asked today was included in my passport renewal application that I sent in June. 

Another Gonzalez party

On Friday night we had another Gonzalez party to go along with the welcome party from 13 days ago and the big bash in Ciudad Bolivar last Saturday. This was suppossed to be a going away/goodbye party but most everyone is coming back to my parent's house tonight. They are all very sweet. It will be hard to say good bye for good tonight. 

Creative Mass Transit

Medellin has the only metro system in Colombia. The trains and stations are impressively clean, fast, smooth, and efficient. Any Antioqueno will tell you it is the best system in the world. I had my doubts, but you know, they could be right. I have been on metros in New York, Washington DC, Los Angeles, Paris, Rome, Boston and this one was the best. The creative part is that they have installed gondola systems that take people from the main train lines up the mountain side to neighborhoods that are built along the hills. Sounds hokey but it works. These gondola-served neighbors have completely turned around. They used to be poor and crime-ridden. Now they are much cleaner, crime is down, and property values are way up (admittedly from a low base). Still, it has been a very successful experiment in how a solid mass transit system can turn around a community. 

Restored Cartagena

I have not yet posted a picture of the old walled city within Cartagena. This corner is typical of how the city has been restored. Other buildings have balconies covered with plants and vines. It is beautiful. 

"I came. I saw. I did a little shopping."

Guest blog written by Caroline and Cecilia:
Hi, its me Caroline. Today was a day of full out shopping if we weren't in a jewelry store we were in a purse store, if we weren't in a purse store we were in a store with lots of leather. Our first stop was at Junin. It is a street devoted to little tchatchke and stuff of that sort. Sadly at Junin we did not stick to the motto ‘shop till you drop’. We only stayed until there was nothing better to buy than a plastic wallet or plastic flowers that are supposed to be a beautiful center piece on your dinner table. Cecilia: (Caroline forgot an important part here). After that we went to a pastry shop, Astor. It was yummy. Our waitress, Yennifer (yes with a 'Y') was dressed in some tacky+ drabish+ Lucy and Ethel making chocolates outfit that all the waitresses had to wear. We then went from Junin to the Botero Museum store. We went because I have been dying for this really cute bag with rosettes on it (see the picture) Luza had told me we could buy it else where for cheaper, but it wasn't anywhere. With hopes that it would still be there, we went and the two bags that were there two weeks ago, were still there. I bought one. My mom bought one with bows and buttons (also in the picture). Caroline's blog begins here again: Then we made our way back to my grandparent’s house. After leaving my grandparents we went to a hammock store (not very exciting). Then we headed to a huge mall.Cecilia:The mall was Unicentro. Caroline left me the not exciting part. We first went to the L.A. Cano store. For those of you reading the blog, and don't know what Cano is, its a super fancy Indian gold and stone work made into jewelry. Some people really like it, and I can see why, but it’s not for me. We were there for a while and something made me and Caroline mad, so we went to the cheaper jewelry store across the way. Caroline bought earrings. Then we went to the artesanias stores. We bought stuff (emphasis on stuff). Then we came home. 

Plane crash update

According to the newspaper this morning, the plane that crashed at the Medellin airport was a Colombian military C-26 (see picture on prior blog post). It ran off the end of the runway and ended up in the ditch. All five crewmembers were unhurt. However, the airport was closed for the rest night while they recovered the airplane. We are still not sure if we landed before or immediately after the plane crash. Probably before, because we saw the firetrucks leaving the station when we were getting off our plane. Fortunately, we got home safe, sound, and on-time.

A little too close for comfort

As we were deplaning in Medellin after our flight from Cartagena, we saw the fire trucks racing across the runway. Apparently, a Colombian military plane had skidded off the runway and into a ditch. We are not sure if this plane landed/crashed before ours landed or just after. We are also not sure if anyone was hurt. At this point, we don't know many details. It made the radio news but I don't see anything on the internet news sites yet. Anyway, if anyone hears about a plane crash at Medellin airport - it was not us. 

Why I didn't want to leave Cartagena

Guest blog - Written by Caroline.
I think leaving Cartagena was a little sad. I know that others were kind of sad as well (except for my dad, who is very eager to leave Colombia.)Caratagena was awsome. I have to say most of it was pretty ugly and dirty, but in the old part of Cartagena it was beautiful! I must say it was one of the most spectacular and beautiful cities I have ever been to. All of it was old and very authentic, but most of it had been restored into a beautiful historic city. Cartagena was also great for shopping. I myself am a shop-a-holic so the little stores only made the city all the more interesting and fun. It was so much fun there. The little city had so much flavor - from the people on the corners selling you things to opening the door to a store that had nothing less expensive then 50,000 pesos. I would kind of describe it like a mystery city. All an all I loved it so much and I can't wait to return . 

Chiva Ride - Even better than a drive-thru

Guest Blog- Written by Cecilia
When we got to the hotel, Mom and Abuelo went to sign us up for a trip to the 'Islas del Rosario'. The next morning we had to get up super early to catch our transportation to the docks, where our boat was going to launch. We waited and waited for our bus to come to pick us up, but none of them stopped for us. Finally a woman came around a corner and led us to our transportation, a Chiva! (A Chiva is one of the colorful Colombian buses used to transport either tourists or local workers on the way to and from the farms.) On the way to the docks we stopped to pick up some people at other hotels. One stop we were harassed by people trying to sell us things (all crap) but there was a guy selling some cool water shoes. We tried them on a bit, some people found the sizes they needed, others, like me, were not ready. The bus started to pull away (not pull away, but race away) and all of us had shoes either on, in our laps, or holding some. I had three pairs of shoes in my lap, plus one on my foot. I panicked and dropped the shoes on the side of the road where all the others were selling things. The man chased us a few blocks before we got the bus to stop. But the poor guy, scrambling to pick up shoes while the bus races away. It was fun though because he got on the bus and sold us the shoes, jumped off in the middle of traffic and ran across the street after almost getting run over by a motorcycle.
That shows I'm a good person, says Tio Guiso. I was not about to run away with some street vendors water shoes.

The United Nations should try this.

Our beach at Isla del Sol included a hammock kiosk with a dozen hammocks. After the snorkeling expedition Nora, Luis, Luella, and Cecilia were able to snag a hammock along with some Germans, Chileans, Americans, and Colombians. Maybe it was because we were tired or perhaps because the kiosk was kind of dark or maybe because of the soothing sounds of the ocean and jungle (probably all three) but everyone in the kiosk took an unbelievable siesta. It was definitely bizarre to be snoozing with a dozen strangers but all of us agreed it was a great nap.

This picture was taken during lunch (so as not to disturb anyone but my Dad's nap). But otherwise the hammock kiosk should absolutely be adopted as a way to bring people together in peace, harmony, and sleepiness. 

Isla del Sol

This is where we hung out for the day on our trip to Islas del Rosario. From here Nora, Cecilia, Caroline, Luis, and Luella went on a snorkeling expedition to the outer reef. All did great. Caroline was a little apprehensive about it. However, just like horseback riding, once she started she loved it and was the last one out of the water. Luella is also becoming quite the snorkeler. Maybe it was because we never saw any fish bigger than 14 inches or maybe it was because she had to help keep an eye on Caroline - but Luby never once squeezed the blood out of my hand, unlike past snorkeling trips when we ran into a school of 6 ft barracuda.

The tour included a typical island lunch of sword fish, rice, salad, and patacones. It was excellent. 

Miami Beach side of Cartagena

There is a huge building boom going on in the "Boca Grande" section of Cartagena. This is a penninsula that forms part of the Cartagena harbor. This is the Miami Beach-like part of Cartagena. 

Day trip to the "Islas del Rosario"

These islands are about an hour boat ride from Cartagena harbor. Each tour group has a small beach resort for swimming, eating, snorkeling, and hanging out. 

Tell your friends - Cartagena is awesome.

This is the first post of many from Cartagena. The city is amazing. It has three parts a new part that is like Miami Beach, a very old part that is unbelievably scenic - imagine a real "Pirates of the Caribbean" set, and a working city part.

This picture is from our room at the Hilton, which is at the end of the "Miami Beach - like" pennisula.

On Tuesday, we spent the afternoon lounging poolside. The water in the pools was probably 92 degrees (and that is unheated). Only Caroline could stand it for very long. However, the food and drinks were great. 

Off to Cartagena

On Tuesday morning we headed up and out of Medellin again for a flight to Cartagena. We had to fly through Bogota. The flight to Bogota was on a Fokker F50, which provided Cecilia the opportunity for a Jackie Kennedy moment when boarding the plane. 

Saturday Night Party in the Plaza

Guest blog written by Luella -
Saturday night in the plaza in Bolivar, all of the family that I had met, and most of those that I hadn't, came to Bolivar for a big get-together. Everyone had arranged to arrive by 7:30pm. When all had gathered, we found a nice area with tables and a tent and handy bar service. Introductions were made and stories were told. I have to admit that I was a little apprehensive about the evening, especially since I had been to the Bolivar Hospital Emergency Room that morning for treatment of a scratched cornea on my right eye. The doctor treated it with drops and, of course, an eye patch. The picture here was taken from my left side, otherwise you would see that I look the a "Pirata of the Caribe." Just how I wanted to show up to the family party! Everyone was so wonderful and concerned,though, that I quickly got over my embarrassment.

All told I think there were at least 50 relatives, most from the Gonzalez side and some from the Restrepo side of the family, that came for this party. A few of the highlights were: Elba's list of "Mamita-isms" (things their grandmother used to say) like, "I heard you all get home, and you got home really late," which had the entire family cracking up, and her husband Giovanni's (the troubadour) song, which he wrote on the drive there, and sang along with two musicians. It included lyrics about everyone in the family including us "gringos" and was all in rhyme.

Sitting in the plaza, eating, drinking, and laughing with the family, was incredibly fun. The setting was amazing, the libations were great, and the company couldn't have been better. I can't wait to do it again.

Indiana Jones has nothing on Jaime "Librillo" Gonzalez

Our cousin Jaime Gonzalez is now the owner of one of my grandfather's farms - Los Monos. He acquired the farm (that was co-owned by my uncle) through inheritance and by buying out his brothers, sisters, aunts, and uncles. He has turned a moribund, low-producing farm into a thriving enterprise that has 350,000 coffee trees, 1000 chickens, and three tilipia ponds.

While impressive, the fun part for us was the tour he gave us on his souped-up, diesel-powered, air-braked, siren-equipped, "Indiana Jones" jeep. This monster had more horse-power than a Hummer and better traction and stability than a mountain-raised mule. Jaime took all of us on (in two groups) on a tour of his farm - up trails that you probably couldn't walk up and around vertical drop-offs that would make your head spin. The sound of the air brakes reminded all of us the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland - but this was real. Cecilia and Caroline rode standing up in the back (no safety belt for these riders) laughing and hooting all the way. Nora's only safety advice was, "Girls, if this thing starts to tip, JUMP." Jaime, who has driven the jeep around these trails during thunderstorms while fully loaded with a couple tons of coffee, only smiled. 

Caroline and Nora's equine weekend

Guest blog written by Nora -
Caroline came to ride and let no-one forget about it. She has spent no less than 6 hrs per day on a beautiful ride for the past 4 days.
On the way back from Bolivar, we stopped in the small mountain village of Titirivi. Our friends have an unbelievably gorgeous farm with a restored house and excellent horses. Caroline of course picked one that loves to run. We rode up a trail with 360 degree views of the Cauca river valley. The high altitude pastures laced with purple flowers looked like Switzerland, and Caroline said, "Mommy, this is the most beautiful place I've ever seen!"
On our way back to the farm, Caroline and I were racing at full gallop, far ahead of the rest of our group, when I felt the saddle start to slip to the left. Too late... I flew off the horse, along the saddle. Luckily, the horse stopped and waited with me for the horse handler to re-saddle him. Although fairly sore and bruised, I didn't get seriously hurt, and off we raced again. 

Los Dos Caballeros

This picture is taken from the balcony of "Tierra Grata." This farm belongs to our parents great friends - Lucia Angel and her son Jorge Gonzalez. Jorge can riff on any subject, but is especially adept at the Antioqueno specialties of exageration and put-downs.

On our first afternoon at Tierra Grata, we went for our first horse ride. Caroline was hooked and spent the whole weekend on a horse, asking to ride on a horse, riding with someone on a horse (when she couldn't get her own), or planning her next horse ride. 

Traveling to Ciudad Bolivar

What is a trip to Bolivar without the prerequisite picture of Cerro de Tuza? This is a natural mountain that looks like a pyramid when approached from this direction. From where we are looking, Medellin is behind us and Bolivar is off to the right. 

Santa Fe de Antioquia

Hello everyone - This is a guest blog written by Cecilia Huber.

For this day trip, Beatrice (Amparo's Sister) joined us. She walked through the front door wearing those gross, fake, teeth that people might by on halloween. We loaded the bus and heaed off to the west, instead of the east. After reaching the north end of the valley we went through a 5.5 kilometer tunnel, recently opened. It took us 6 minutes and 11 seconds to get through the tunnel. Caroline tried to hold her breath the whole way, but she only made it 30 seconds.

We arrived in Santa Fe De Antioquia, but didn't stop because we were meeting some friends outside the town in their vacation home. To get there we had to cross the oldest and largest suspention bridge in all of South America. d 

Tour through the "Oriente" (East of Medellin)

Today we took our rented van up and out of the Medellin valley to the east. This area is known as the "Oriente." You can see by the picture that it is a higher elevation area with lots of evergreens and large rocky landscapes. The area has many cold weather farms (onions, carrots, cauliflower), some ranches, but mostly vacation farms for the wealthy people of Medellin. The trip was fun although the van was somewhat rickety and the driver was not the best navigator. As our cousin Elba Cecilia said, "If it was not for Nora, we would have been lost in the town of Guatape." Believe me - it was funny when she said it in Spanish. 

Gonzalez Cousins

Many of the Medellin cousins, aunts, second cousins, etc. came to my parents house for our first reunion. It was lots of fun and we planned our Saturday night party in Bolivar for this weekend. There should be more than 50 people there. 

Biblioteca Virtual

This is an amazing library that we visited in the afternoon. Like the Getty Museum, the architecture is almost more impressive than the contents. The building is organized with slanted floors that zig-zag up for six floors. It is filled with computer terminals, i-learning centers, and multimedia meeting and classrooms. Overall, one of the best examples of a civic project that I have ever seen. 

Botero Museum

Our first tourist stop was the Botero Museum. For those that don't know, Fernando Botero is the artist that paints, sculpts, and draws the really rotund figures. He donated a bunch of the art and the money to create this museum. It was awesome. He is a great artist in all mediums and with all subjects from fruit to prostitutes to Jesus.

After lunch we had a "typical" Antioqueno lunch at a restaurant called HatoTypico.